So last time, I related the tale of the challenges involved in getting a seat in this crazy country, one which might just have more students of Japanese language than Japan has population. I got lucky with that and was able to make a last minute adjustment to take the test in Jinan, Shandong. That's a swift 9 hour over-night train ride away. Get on the train. Flop on the bed. Wake up and suddenly you are there. The problem is that China grants admission to testing rooms based on a form called a 准考证 Zhunkaozheng, and they won't mail it to you, you have to show up in person with photo ID to claim it. The deadline for doing so meant I had to travel north four days in advance of the test.
I enter the Zhunkaozheng claiming room to bewildered expressions. Yes, just as I thought, I'm the only whitey out of more than 80,000 seats in this country. It seems other people don't come to CHINA to learn JAPANESE. I have to go to another office to register to have the results mailed to me as I'm not spending 18 hours and 800 kuai to claim it in person. The funny lady looks bewilderedly at the name written below the address and says, "No one knows what this [crap] means. Is this a name or something? You have to have a Chinese name. Write your Chinese name here." Yes, one needs a Chinese name to take an internationally conducted Japanese exam.
The fervor of it all way immense. If you want to be a part of something big, come take your JLPT test in China. For the past several weeks I didn't go a day without seeing someone doing some last reviews of JLPT prep books on the subway on the way to work. Now in the final stretch, studying around the clock myself, I entered a 24-hour McDonalds (to get a hot chocolate!) not even near the testing university and saw entire aisles of seats claimed by students zombie eye-edly scanning up and down the pages of their well-worn JLPT prep books. On the final night one unfortunate fellow (seems to have been a Japanese guy helping his Chinese girl with a few tough grammar points) made his native status a bit too obvious to surrounding parties and got totally ambushed. "Hey excusay-muah? Just a quick question..." A book shoved in his face I saw it took him more than 15 minutes to escape their merciless onslaught.
Test day arrived swiftly. The party of proctors (is three really necessary in one small room?) didn't want to let me in the room because they were convinced I should be taking a Chinese language exam instead somewhere else in a room with a bunch of non-Chinese. You'd think with three proctors they could force people to follow the rules, like the first one printed on the very first line on the cover of the test book "Don't open and start until instructed to do so". I turned and admired the girl behind me as she seemed full of entrepreneurial spirit and about ready to open her own 711 with the assortment of coffee, chocolate bars, and white rabbit candies arranged across the top of her desk. So much for only being allow pencils and erasers. I heard the sound of everyone flipping to the third page of the vocabulary section as the head proctor finally gave the word "go" and I flipped to the first page. It's not that I refuse to culturally assimilate in China, it's just that I'm trying to meet the international standard for this test, not the cheating Chinese one.
The extra minutes the room of cheaters stole on the vocab section didn't make an oodle of difference, I had no problem finish the section with surplus time. The listening section requires one to bubble in the correct one out of four options in the first wrong and the incorrect three out of four on the row after. An obvious Chinese test pro next to me began bubbling in all four in the odd rows, seeing as it is faster to erase one correct one later than to bubble in three wrong ones. Many others followed her lead and began bubbling away before the recording began. If only they used the headphones equipped on every desk I might have had a prayer on listening. Instead, they used a blaring boombox and crap cassette. Adjusting the volume and making sure everything worked the proctor played random segments of the tape allowing us an unfair "preview" off all the questions we're just supposed to be able to hear once. It didn't help, my hearing sucks. I guessed on every question for 35 minutes and got rather depressed. My brain's foreign language auditory processing unit just sucks in dealing with blaring noises and classroom echoes.
Passing out the reading and grammar section the proctors didn't even give the word "go" because I was the only person in the room who hadn't started immediately upon receiving the test book. Finally I made eye contact with the head proctor and she nodded for me to go. The dirty bastards got a full two minute head start on me, and this is a section where 30 seconds can make a difference of a few percentage points. Remember the test is "normalized" internationally in part based on the performance of the cheating Chinese (who comprise 40% of test takers). For the full 70 minutes the three proctors clickity-click made laps around the room eyeing everyone and consequently made me nervous as hell. There is nothing more intolerable to me than having someone watch me take a test or do a math problem. Ugh. Sit your ass down, woman!
So now I get to wait until March for the results.

